Experience 4,000 Years of Japanese History in 14 Days
For many travellers, the allure of Japan lies in the unique way that the country melds together the past, present and, in some cases, the future into a complex cultural tapestry where everything seems simultaneously traditional and progressive. Human habitation in Japan stretches back to around 30,000BC and in that time, war, religion, hardship, nature, politics and of course people have helped to shape a landscape and national identity that is unlike any other in the world.
If you are a traveller, the prospect of navigating the country's multifaceted past might seem intimidating, but with a 14 Day JR Pass in hand, you have a powerful tool that you can use to explore more than 4,000 years of Japanese history in comfort and style.
Day 1: Kazuno
Your journey begins just outside the northern city of Kazuno, at one of the country's oldest surviving prehistoric sites, the Oyu Stone Circles, also known as Japan's stone henge.
Thought to have been constructed during the Jomon Period (12,000BC- 300BC) around 2000BCE, the site has two stone circles, Manza and Nonakado, which, in their centres, feature stone sundials that align with the sunset during the summer solstice.
Like many other prehistoric sites around the world, no one really knows why the Jomon people constructed the circles, although the discovery of ritual objects such as clay figurines, animals, and stone rods suggest that it was used as a site of religious celebration.
The site can be accessed by taking the Hanawa Line to Kazuno-Hanawa Station, and then taking a bus bound for Oyu Onsen which will drop you right out the front. The nearby Jomon museum is also worth a visit to learn more about how the prehistoric Jomon people lived and see some of the artefacts uncovered at the site.
Days 2 - 4: Hirazumi and Ichinoseki
Taking the Hanawa Line and switching at Morioka station to the Tohoku Line, you will arrive in the peaceful town of Hirazumi, Japans political centre between the 9th and 12th centuries during the reign of the Fujiwaras.
Once said to rival the grandeur of Kyoto, all that's left of Hirazumi's grandiose past are a series of religious sites dating from the early 9th century. Chuson-ji Temple is perhaps the most famous site, and is known for its opulent Golden Hall (Konjikido), a 12th century hall famous for its mother of pearl inlay and metalwork, as well as gold and silver illustrations.
Other impressive sites include the serene 9th century Pure Land Garden at Motsu-ji Temple and the cave temple Takkoku no Iwaya Bishamon-do which is dedicated to the Buddhist god of war and is, ironically, a place to pray for peace. The Sanzoko Museum is also worth a visit as it boasts more than 3,000 exhibits including a stunning lacquered box, designed to hold the head of one of the Fujiwara clan.
If you plan to spend a few days in the area, its also worth taking a short trip on the Tohoku Line to explore the natural delights of Ichinoseki. Here you can take a boat ride through the verdant Geibikei Gorge or explore The Yuugendou caves.
Days 5 - 6: Ashikaga
Take the Tohoku Shinkansen south to Utsunomiya Station, then take the Shonan-Shinjuku Line to Oyama Station, where you take the Ryomo Line through to to the historic city of Ashikaga, the ancestral home of the powerful Ashikaga clan, who ruled Japan from the 12th to late 16th centuries. The city blossomed during this period and there are many important buildings and shrines which remain from this time.
Ashikaga is the home of Japan's oldest university, Ashikaga Gakko which was founded during the 15th century and became a place for students to study Confucianism, the I Ching and Chinese medicine.
Another significant historical site in the city is the Bannaji Temple which was built in the 12th century as the home of Ashikaga clan founder and powerful samurai Minamoto no Yoshiyasu. Elements of Yoshiyasus military profession can still be seen in the way he chose to construct the property with walls, a moat, and a four gate layout. In the late 12th century, the patriarch's son, Yoshikane built a temple on the property which eventually became the official temple of the Ashikaga clan. There are more than a dozen original buildings on the temple site as well as an enormous 600-year-old gingko tree, and numerous religious artefacts dating from the 13th century.
Other essential sights in the city include the Ashikaga Flower Park which is known for the stunning wisteria arbors which bloom during April and May, and the Ashikaga Machinaka Ykgakkan, where you can learn more about the city's famous textile traditions and take a weaving class.
Days 7- 8: Nikko
Take the Ryomo Line to Tochigi Station and then ride the Nikko-Kinugawa north to Shimo-Imaichi Station to arrive in the temple town of Nikko.
As Japan's greatest Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu lay on his deathbed in 1616, he stated that his final wish was to be enshrined as a god in Nikko, where he could act as a guardian of peace in Japan.
The resulting temple complex is unlike any other in Japan, with colourful carvings that border on gaudy, and gold leaf as far as the eye can see.
For all its opulence, however, the most revered sight in the temple complex is the original carving of the Three Wise Monkeys on the side of the Sacred Stable.
Nikko is also the site of the elegant red Shinkyo Bridge (built 1636), the Cedar Avenue lined with 13,000 sugi (cryptomeria) trees planted during the time of Tokugawa Ieyasu, and a national park with hiking opportunities for all ability levels.
Days 9 -10: Gokayama
Exchange the gaudy opulence of Nikko for the bucolic farming landscape of Gokayama by taking the Nikko-Kinugawa to Omiya Station, changing to the Hokuriku-Shinkansen, before finally changing at Shin-Takaoka Station for the Johana Line and taking it to Fukumitsu Station. Although it is not the easiest destination to access (you need to take a Kaetsuno Bus for 40 minutes from the station), the site of the unique gassho style farmhouses is well worth the effort.
Gassho means hands together which references the high pitched roof designed to keep off snow and to raise silkworms in the spacious attic. Most of the houses are around 300 years old, as the villages secluded mountainous location allowed its inhabitants to live a very traditional lifestyle whilst the rest of Japan modernised.
It is possible to spend a night in Gokayama in a house designed in the historic gassho style, and this is well worth doing if you want to soak up the tranquil atmosphere and get a real feel for village life.
Day 11: Nagano
To experience some of Japan's WWII history, take the Johana Line to Shin-Takaoka Station and change to the Hokuriku-Shinkansen to get to Nagano Station.
Although the city of Nagano is best known for hosting the 1998 Winter Olympic Games, its also home to a unique piece of Japanese wartime history.
In 1944 as they country faced certain defeat, plans were made to transplant core elements of the Japanese government and the Emperor to underground bunkers where they might be able to haul up for one final battle that would, in theory, do such damage to the Allied Forces that they would concede to the imperial system.
The 10km of planned tunnels were called the Matsushiro Underground Imperial Headquarters and they featured a royal palace, telephone bureau, national broadcasting facilities for the NHK, military communications, government facilities, an imperial sanctuary and four locations for housing Korean comfort women, who disappeared mysteriously at the end of the war.
Seven thousdand Korean forced labourers worked on the site and over 1,000 people died during construction due to malnutrition, dynamiting accidents, and execution. Today, only 500 metres of one of the tunnels is open to the public, where there is a memorial stone to the Japanese and Korean people who lost their lives and a small museum near the entrance which displays artefacts from the construction.
Days 12 -14: Tokyo
Japan is a country where the past, present, and future live harmoniously side by side, and nowhere is this more evident than in the capital of Tokyo. Take the Hokuriku-Shinkansen to Tokyo Station and step into a futuristic world of intelligent toilets, anime aesthetics, and neon signs as far as the eye can see.
Avant garde attractions like the Tokyo Skytree and Odaibas Palette Town are essential stop offs for travelers who want to get the full Tokyo space age experience, but simply walking around the brightly lit streets and observing the day to day existence of the city and its people is the best way to revel in the futuristic details of a metropolis that is truly ahead of its time.
The best way to explore Japan and its many facets of history is with a JR Rail Pass. This rail pass entitles you to unlimited travel on the JR network for a period of 7, 14 or 21 consecutive days and makes travelling throughout this incredibly unique and diverse country a breeze.